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＜紀要論文＞
PRECISE DETERMINATION OF THE SOLITARY WAVE OF EXTREME HEIGHT ON WATER OF A UNIFORM DEPTH
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| 概要 | In view of the facts that a solitary wave which can be produced upon the surface of water of a uniform depth is the limit attained when the wave length of a surface wave grows indefinitely and that th...erefore it constitutes an idealized model out of which practical knowledges of long waves may be derived, in this paper factors characteristic to the solitary wave of the extreme height, including the wave profile and the distribution of the surface velocity, are given in great detail. As a whole, miscellaneous numerical values already published by various authors are verified. It is established above all that the ratios of wave velocity vs. tidal wave velocity and wave height vs. water depth are 1.2854 and 0.8262 respectively, both of which are supposed to be correct to the 4th decimal places.続きを見る |
| 目次 | 1. Introduction 2. Formulation of the problem 3. Calculation scheme for the highest wave 4. Procedure of numerical computations 5. Results of numerical computations |
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| 登録日 | 2024.02.14 |
| 更新日 | 2024.10.22 |