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Ocean waves are measured at an oceanographic research tower using a Triangular array of wave gauges. The propagation direction and the phase velocity of spectral components of waves are determined fro...m observed cross spectra. It is shown that observed phase velocity and coherence of spectral components of ocean waves are consistent with a linear theory of two-dimensional random waves. Slight differences between the linear theory and the observations are attributed approximately to the effects of weak opposing waves reflected from coastal area.続きを見る
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Mendeley出力
027084_p047