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＜紀要論文＞
オーストリア・フォラールベルク州における刺繍・レース工業の発展 : 20世紀初めから1970年代初めまでに焦点を当てて
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| 概要 | The purpose of this paper as a sequel of Yamamoto (2025) is to describe the development of embroidery industry in Vorarlberg, Austria, focused on the period between the beginning of the 20th century ...and the beginning of the 1970s. In order to do this, I utilized Kammer der gewerblichen Wirtschaft für Vorarlberg (1952) and some papers by local researchers and well-informed people in Vorarlberg such as Linder (1956), Winsauer (1965), Meusburger (1972), Heinzle (2018), Staudacher (2019) and so on. While most of Lohnsticker (contract embroiderers) in Vorarlberg were still dependent on Fabrikanten (facto- ry-owning manufacturers) in eastern Switzerland, centered on St. Gallen, until the beginning of the 1920s, some Fabrikanten in Vorarlberg were independent from them and had already exported embroidery since the beginning of the 20th century at latest. The movement of their independence from eastern Switzerland proceeded in the 1920s and new markets were developed in the United Kingdom and some colonies of the Western countries in Asia and Africa. Because of the Great Depression, the export of embroidery from Vorarlberg decreased in the 1930s. Some pioneering Fabrikanten of embroidery changed their machines and products, and many Lohnsticker withdrew from manufacturing embroidery. After World War II, some Fabrikanten and many Lohnsticker restarted their own business. The transaction between them functioned so well that the production volume and export increased as early as between the end of the 1940s and the mid 1950s as well as in the second half of the 1960s. They were concentrated in the mid-area of the Rhine Valley, centered on Lustenau more clearly than in the beginning of the 20th century. Fabrikanten and exporters in Vorarlberg were eager to develop new markets all over the world and got information about the sort of embroidery peculiar to each national and ethnic culture by means of direct visits of foreign countries, and they were successful in East and Southeast Asia and West Africa in the latter half of the 1960s on the basis of high quality of their own products, while the most important markets of embroidery made in Vorarlberg were EEC countries, followed by EFTA countries. On the other hand, the Federal Law of Supporting Embroidery was enacted in 1956 and amended in 1962. Therefore, production of embroidery in Vorarlberg was to be controlled strictly. In the period of good business conditions, manufacturers of embroidery could produce 24 hours in a day and seven days in a week. If the business conditions became bad, they might work only from five o’clock in the early morning to one o’clock in the midnight. If an embroidery machine was forced to be unutilized because of bad business conditions, the manufacturers including Lohnsticker concerned could be compensated with money from the Crisis Foundation raised not by the federal and provincial governments, but by Fabrikanten, their employees and Lohnsticker.続きを見る |
| 目次 | 1.はじめに 2. 20世紀前半期フォラールベルクの刺繍・レース工業の状況 2.1 1880年から1948年までの刺繍機械台数の変化と1950年頃の状況 2.2 東スイス依存の加工貿易 2.3 独自の輸出市場開拓 2.4 レース生産の開始 3. 第２次世界大戦後1970年代初めまでの刺繍・レース工業の成長 3.1 1940年代末頃の状況に関する刺繍工業連合事務局長の認識 3.2 ファブリカントとローンシュティッカーの連帯 3.3 1960年代までの輸出動向 3.4 フォラールベルク州内での刺繍生産の地理的分布 3.5 1950年頃のレース（Klöppelspitze）生産の状況 3.6 1950年代半ば頃の有力刺繍企業の概要 3.7 フォラールベルク製刺繍の輸出先とその変化 4. おわりに続きを見る |
詳細
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| 登録日 | 2026.04.14 |
| 更新日 | 2026.04.14 |