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＜紀要論文＞
オーストリアのフォラールベルクにおける刺繍織・レース工業の発展 : その起源と産業化時代に焦点を当てて
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| 概要 | The purpose of this paper is to re-investigate the origin of embroidery production in Vorarlberg, Austria, and its development in the era of industrialization. Although some Japanese scholars wrote ar...ticles about it, we can find inconsistency among their respective descriptions. Therefore, the present author re-investigates the development of that industry in Vorarlberg on the basis of articles written by Vorarlberg’s intellectuals (Nägele 1947, 1949; Winsauer 1965, 1967, 1978; Heinzle 2018), documents of industrial associations in Vorarlberg, and academic articles by a professional historian in Austra, namely Weitensfelder (1999, 2001), who investigated the industrialization in Vorarlberg on the basis of historical materials at the Landesarchiv Vorarlberg. Even among these Austrian scholars, we must find some inconsistency in respect of epoch-making years of the development of embroidery production in Vorarlberg. Therefore, the present author has noticed the original historical materials, on the basis of which the Austrian scholars described its development. As a result of the critical re-investigation, it is clear that the production of embroidery was diffused about the middle of the 18th century from Eastern Switzerland. But it is not impossible to identify the precise year of the diffusion of the skill for embroidery. Although it is also difficult to identify the precise year of the first operation of Handstickmaschine or the symbolic machine of the industrialization or mass production of high-quality embroidery, it is sure that the industrialization began either at the end of the 1860s or in the 1870s, because all the Austrian intellectuals mentioned above referred to the year either of 1867 or of 1868 or of 1869 as the first Handstickmaschine in Vorarlberg. It is important to pay attention to the role of the so-called Fergger or carriers with the function of brokerage for the industrialization of embroidery production in Vorarlberg. Fergger transported materials for embroidery from Eastern Switzerland to Vorarlberg and the final products from Vorarlberg to Eastern Switzerland. They played the key-role in the processing trade between Vorarlberg and Eastern Switzerland, area of which is comprised from three cantons, namely St. Gallen, Appenzell (Ausserrhoden as well as Innerrhoden) and Thurgau. Fergger must have had literacy and elementary knowledge of accounting at least and must have had monetary asset, because they paid wages in Austrian currency to the embroiderers in Vorarlberg before receiving commission fee in Swiss Franc from Swiss Fabrikanten (factory-owning managers) and exporting merchants. Some Fergger could become independent Fabrikanten and exporting merchants of embroidery so early as 1880s and 1890s. This process advanced at some Gemeinden or municipalities on the Rhine valley. Among these places, Lustenau was most important, because the first and the largest Fabrikant appeared in this village and about twenty Fabrikanten as well as a large number of Lohnsticker operated Handstickmaschinen already in the year 1880 at this village. Lohnsticker owned one or two embroidery machines for mass production, but they could operate their own machine only as subcontractors of Fabrikanten or exporters. However, this industry was not concentrated in Lustenau, although its share was largest among the municipalities in Vorarlberg. Not only this place but also its neighboring towns and villages on the Rhine valley led the industrialization of embroidery within Vorarlberg. However, no machine makers for embroidery were born in Vorarlberg. Both Fabrikanten and Lohnsticker in this Land or country used embroidery machines produced either in Eastern Switzerland or in Saxony of Germany. However, Lustenau stood out and became prosperous. Its population also grew so rapidly that the Austrian Emperor certified it as a market town in the year of 1902. But a large number of the so-called Lohnsticker in Vorarlberg were dependent on the Swiss Fabrikanten and exporting merchants until the beginning of the 1930s, because the volume of export of embroidery was much more from Eastern Switzerland than from Vorarlberg.続きを見る |
| 目次 | １．はじめに ２．産業化時代前期までにおけるフォラールベルクの刺繍織・レース工業 2．1．日本人による先行研究 2．2．フォラールベルクの産業化時代とはいつのことか？ 2．3．産業化時代前期までの実態を明らかにしている研究の同定 2．4．18世紀前半期のフォラールベルクの経済と刺繍織工業の導入年 2．5．東スイス・フォラールベルク間の刺繍織加工貿易を仲介したフェルガー ３．刺繍織・レースの機械生産化 3．1．鎖編刺繍機の導入 3．2．手動刺繍機械の導入 3．3．シフリ刺繍機械の導入 3．4．フォラールベルク最大の刺繍織企業 3．5．国立刺繍織専門学校の設立 ４．20世紀前半期の動向と不況期における政府の政策 ５．おわりに続きを見る |
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| 登録日 | 2025.11.10 |
| 更新日 | 2025.11.10 |